How to bake sourdough bread (and save a buck on every loaf)

By Philip Brewer on 13 March 2009 (Updated 4 May 2009) 19 comments
Photo: Philip Brewer

I doubt if the cost of yeast is really breaking your household budget. If you bake a lot you probably already buy yeast in bulk, so you're not paying the per-packet price anyway. And yet, baking sourdough bread (or rolls or pizza crust) is just so cool. My wife and I haven't bought yeast for years, but we bake bread all the time. And that's what this post is about--baking sourdough bread.

Sourdough starterCarrie wrote a great post on getting your sourdough starter going, so I'll mostly skip that step. You can catch wild yeasts in your kitchen, spend a few dollars on a packet of fancy "San Francisco" sourdough starter, or just use your last packet of store-bought yeast to kick off your starter. It doesn't matter.

I'm going to use that phrase a lot: It doesn't matter. By that I don't mean that the bread will come out the same no matter what you do. What I mean is that it will be bread no matter what you do. In fact, that's the theme of this whole post: Making bread is easy. It's possible to screw it up, but most people succeed on their first try. My wife and I have been baking bread at least once a week for years and we haven't had a failure yet.

So, assuming you have a jar of starter--even if it's just a couple cups of water, a couple cups of flour, and a packet of store-bought yeast--here's what you do. When you're done, you'll have a fresh-baked loaf of bread. You'll also once again have a jar of starter--which is why you'll never have to buy yeast again.

Whichever technique you use to create your starter, remember that it's a living thing. We think of ours as a pet. (We named her Bubbles.)

Feed your starter

Starter after feedingStep one is to feed the starter. You have to do this every week or so whether you're going to bake anything or not, so you might as well bake something.

Feeding your starter just means putting it in a big bowl and adding some water and some flour so that the yeast have something to eat. After a week, even in the refrigerator where yeast grows pretty slowly, the yeast will have eaten pretty much all the sugar in the flour, so you have to give it some fresh flour if you want it to live.

So, how much water and flour do you need to add? It doesn't matter. What I usually do is add as much water as I want for whatever I'm baking. If I'm baking a full-size loaf of bread, that's usually two cups of water, for pizza dough, one cup. (Lately I've been using a bit less for bread, because I had a couple of loaves rise so much they didn't fit in our bread box.) I add about as much flour as I added water.

The books say to add all-purpose flour, because whole-wheat flour has oils that can go rancid.

Let your starter feast on that fresh flour for a while. How long? It doesn't matter. The yeast will start growing right away, so in as little as 20 minutes you'll have doubled the amount of yeast. You could go on to the next step as early as that, if you're in a big hurry. You could leave it over night, if you wanted to bake bread first thing the next morning. I usually feed Bubbles right after breakfast and then go on to the next step right after lunch.

The books on these things always emphasize that you should keep your starter in a glass jar, as the alcohol and acid produced can leach things you don't want to eat out of metal or plastic containers. For the same reason, they often say to use a wooden spoon rather than a metal one.

The starter won't grow very fast while it's cold, so it's good if the water you add is warm. Just make sure it isn't so hot as to kill the yeast. (The books say 110° F. I just go with "warm" and haven't killed Bubbles yet.) You can add cold water and it'll still work, it'll just take a little longer.

Save your starter

After saving the starterThis is the only other step that's different from making bread with store-bought yeast. Once your yeast has had a chance to feed for a bit, pour some back into the jar where you keep your starter. How much? It doesn't matter. I always pour back 2 cups so that we always have the same amount. One cup would be enough. You could pour back variable amounts if you wanted.

Put something over the jar with your starter, but don't close it up too tightly. The covering is to keep dust out, keep the starter from drying out, and keep it from exchanging smells and flavors with everything else in your fridge. Since it's alive, though, it'll produce carbon dioxide, and if you have a tight lid the pressure can build up enough to break the jar.

Put your starter in the fridge. You can leave it for a week or two. If you're going to go be away from it longer than that, you can freeze it. It may not be as lively as usual the first time or two you use it after that, but it'll usually survive.

Make dough

With the part of the starter that you didn't put back in the fridge, make bread dough. Making bread dough, of course, is easy--just add flour until it's dough and knead it for a while.

Bread ingredientsWhat flour? It doesn't matter. Whatever you like. All-purpose flour will make fine bread. I like bread made with whole wheat flour better, so I almost always use mostly whole wheat flour. I like the way the bread comes out if I use some bread flour, though, so I usually do. You can also put in moderate amounts of all kinds of exotic flours, if you want. We got a big bag of rye flour for 99¢, so I've been putting some of that in every loaf just lately. I often put in a third of a cup of rolled oats or of corn meal, just to add a bit of complexity to the bread. I don't think I've ever added brown rice flour to the bread, but I bet it would be good. I almost always add a couple tablespoons of flax seed meal for the fiber and the omega-3 fatty acids.

There's a lot of other things you can add. You can put in some oil or butter, if you want. I usually don't, because the bread is just as yummy and lower in fat without it. You can put in some sugar, if you want. That can speed up the rising a bit, by giving the yeast some simple sugars to eat. If you put in a lot, it can also make the bread a little sweet, if you like that. I've been known to add sugar in many different forms--white sugar, brown sugar, honey, molasses. Just lately we've been adding corn syrup. (We've had this bottle for years, because our previous cat had diabetes and our vet suggested we keep it on hand in case of insulin shock. Rather than throw it out, we're putting a tablespoon or so in loaves of bread here and there.)

ARTICLE CONTINUES BELOW

We don't put salt in our bread, because we like it better without, but lots of people do. (If you make your bread in a bread machine, don't skip the salt. Salt retards the growth of the yeast; if you skip it, the timing in the bread machine will lead to the bread rising too quickly and then partially collapsing. If you're baking it yourself, you can just go by how the bread looks and it'll be fine.)

Add whatever flour and other ingredients you want. Once it's not too sticky, start kneading. Add flour as necessary until you get dough. That's really all there is to this step.

Let the dough rise

I usually do two risings. I form the dough into a ball, put it back in the same bowl I used to mix it, and then cover it with a piece of plastic wrap. (The tradition is to cover it with a damp cloth. It doesn't matter. The covering is just to keep dust out of the dough and to keep it from drying out.)

The traditional rule of thumb is to let the bread "double in bulk" at each rising. I usually do a short first rising--just 20 or 40 minutes--and then form the loaf and let it rise again in the loaf pan. You can also just do one rising, forming a loaf and letting it rise in the loaf pan right from the start. You get bread either way.

How you do the rising makes a difference in the texture of the bread--whether it has lots of little holes or fewer, larger holes. If your starter is a San Francisco-style culture, doing a long first rising and then a long second rising may give you bread that's more sour than you get from just one rising.

One thing about sourdough is that there's likely to be a lot of variability at this stage. Depending on a lot of different things--how long it's been since the last time you fed starter, how long you fed it this time, how much sugar you put in the dough, how moist the dough is, how much you kneaded it, and no doubt lots of other things--the bread can double in bulk in anywhere from 20 minutes to 3 or 4 hours. (This is probably the reason that people ever even invented yeast packets.)

Forming the loaf?  Just knead the dough into an oblong blob that'll fit in your loaf pan.  You probably want to grease the pan so the bread will come out easily.  Drop the blob in the pan and let it rise. 

Bake the bread

Once the bread has risen enough, turn on the oven and bake it. I bake mine at 350° F, but I'm sure you could bake it at other temperatures.

I do a couple of things to save energy, and because I like the way the bread turns out. One is to just put the dough into a cold oven and then turn the oven on. Unlike with cakes and pies, there's no need to preheat the oven. Another thing I do is to turn the oven off about 15 minutes before the bread is ready to come out--it stays hot long enough to finish the bread.

You're supposed to be able to tell of the bread is done by thumping on the bottom of the loaf and listening to the sound, so I always do that. My bread is always done, though, so I've never heard what it sounds like if it isn't done.

Quality control

The bread will slice better if you let it cool some before you cut it. But who can wait that long?  We always cut a couple of slices right away and perform quality control.  Fortunately, it's always of high quality.

Besides just eating it yourself, you can also give bread away to friends and relations.  It's always appreciated as a gift by people who imagine that it's a lot of work to bake bread.  In fact, though, it isn't.  The only real issue is wall-clock time.  It probably only takes about half an hour of actual work to bake a loaf, but that half hour is spread over at least half a day.  If you have to spend all day at work, it would require some pretty fancy scheduling to be able to be there for each step along the way.  So I can see why some people buy store-bought bread.

If you can bake your own bread, though, there's only one reason not to make it sourdough bread--if you bake so rarely that your starter would die between loaves.

As I say, we haven't bought yeast in years, so baking sourdough bread does save us a bit of money--but that's not why we do it. We do it because it's fun, because we enjoy kneading the dough, because fresh bread is better whether it's sourdough or not, because we can make the bread exactly the way we like it, because we can make it different every time, because we can use premium ingredients--and still make it cheaper than store-bought bread. But mostly because it's fun.

 

Additional photo credit: All photos by Philip Brewer
4.8125
Average: 4.8 (16 votes)
Your rating: None
ShareThis

comments

19 discussions

Add New Comment

CAPTCHA
This test helps prevent automated spam submissions.
Guest's picture
Sophie

I have been baking my own bread from sourdough starter for a few months now. It took me a couple tries for the starter. I ended up using half a packet of store-bought yeast. The bread makes my apartment smell like heaven!

Thanks for writing this article, hopefully more people will get into it. It's frugal, healthy and I find kneading dough to be very relaxing (and a great arm workout).

Guest's picture

My best friend does a considerable amount of baking, and when I started making homemade bread a couple months ago, she let me in on a great tip. If you like whole wheat bread but add all purpose flour to lighten the texture, just add wheat gluten. She recommends experimenting with the amount of gluten to get it just right for you, but suggests starting with a couple of tablespoons.

Carrie Kirby's picture

Despite my post, i haven't gotten around to making a sourdough starter yet. My to-do list said to get the worm bin started first, and you know how that went.

But I will definitely keep a print of this post in my recipe folder to help me once i grow it!

I blog at www.shopliftingwithpermission.com.

Guest's picture

My mother in law makes sour dough bread for special occasions and it is phenomenal. It is definitely one of my favorite flavored breads, right up there with pumpernickel, I would eat it every day if I could.

Thanks for the directions.

Guest's picture
Michelle

I just had to call them out here, because we use click-clacks a lot, although the one problem I haven't figured out is how to clean gunk out of the seals.

Mom always uses a big Tupperware bowl (what we would call a bread bowl or popcorn bowl) when letting bread rise (she used to make a quadruple batch each week). It'll pop the lid when it's time to punch it down. It looks like the current descendant of that bowl is http://order.tupperware.com/pls/htprod_www/tup_show_item.show_item_detai... .

Also, what kinds of pans do you use? I've been looking for 2 quart glass or ceramic loaf pans off and on for a number of years now, but they don't seem to be very common.

Guest's picture
JC

What the heck... that's where the sourness comes from in sour dough? Interesting post. I never really liked sour dough though =P

Philip Brewer's picture

@JC:

Good question!

In the classic San Francisco sourdough culture you find not only a unique species of yeast, but also a lactobacillus.

Yeast turn sugar into carbon dioxide and alcohol.  Lactobacilli turn sugar into lactic acid--which tastes sour.

This particular pair make a perfect symbiotic unit.  Most yeast can digest any kind of sugar, but this particular species of yeast can digest any except maltose--which is a key sugar in grain products.  Lactobacilli can only digest maltose--so this pair doesn't compete for that.  Also, the Lactobascillus needs certain amino acids--which (it turns out) it can get from dead yeast cells.  There's info about the pair here.

There's another you you can get a sour taste, which is from acidobactors, which turn alcohol into acidic acid.  This is how wine turns into vinager.  I don't know if it's an important part of the way sourdough tastes sour--it may  be, at least some of the time.

In practice, or so I've read, the culture that will grow best varies from place to place.  Whether you start with baker's yeast from the store or a fancy San Francisco starter, after a few cycles of feeding, you'll end up with whatever grows best in your kitchen.

Guest's picture
Sophie

Just a tip for people who have starters, but don't like extremely tangy sourdough bread... the starter will separate into a thicker starter and on top, a layer of hooch (liquid), sometimes when you proof the starter and definitely during when you store it in the fridge or wherever. Instead of stirring the liquid back in, pour it off. It will take a lot of the "sourdough" flavor out of your bread.

Guest's picture
Hannah

I've been baking sourdough on and off for a year or so. I think it is good that you emphasized how flexible it is; people assume that "normal" bread is hard and sourdough is harder but that's not true.

For those that aren't home all day, the process can be put on "pause" by throwing the dough in the fridge at basically any point. I often start a batch in an afternoon/evening, put it in the fridge, let it warm up again and rise the next afternoon and bake it for supper on day 2. Just make sure it is covered tightly or oiled up so it doesn't try out.

I often have my loaves burst open as they bake, so it helps to score the top with a serrated knife before baking.

Guest's picture

Thanks for the post. My dad owned and ran a bakery (until the flour dust gave him health problems). I remember well going down late at night to help him out (two other workers). My favourite part was coating the chocolate covered cupcakes.

Guest's picture

Great post! I love bread recipes-- have to try this one.

Guest's picture
Ajith

Hey Phil, are you still in town? Maybe I can get some of your starter?

Philip Brewer's picture

Ajith!  Good to hear from you!

Guest's picture
Tabatha

I've been reading a bit about sourdough starters and the part I don't get is how often do you have to feed your refrigerated starter so that it doesn't die? If I want to feed it and bake a loaf of bread once a week, is that enough? And sticking the starter right back in the fridge, will it be ok time and time again?

Philip Brewer's picture

So, there's two factors.  One is how often you bake bread.  We generally bake a fresh loaf a little more often than once a week--every five or six days, maybe--because that's how much bread we eat.  But the books seem to suggest that once a week is fine.  I've read that you shouldn't go more than two weeks without feeding your starter.

The other factor is how long you let the yeast sit after taking it out of the fridge and feeding it.  We generally go four or five hours--from right after breakfast until right after lunch--but anything from 20 minutes to overnight will also work.

But, yes:  Feed your starter, let it sit for a while, pour some back into a jar, and put it right back in the fridge.  There's no reason your starter can't live like that forever.  We've had ours going for at least five years now, maybe longer than that. (I don't remember when we got it, but I remember having to freeze it in 2005 when we took a vacation in Scotland that had us away from home more than two weeks.)

On the other hand, starters do die sometimes.  We had one die on us some years earlier.  It's sad, like losing any pet.

One other way to get a starter besides the ones I mention at the beginning of the post is to get some from a friend who bakes sourdough bread.  Sharing your starter is easy--just feed the starter, let it sit for a while, and then pour the starter into two jars and give one to your friend.  Do that with any friends who are interested.  Then, if your starter dies, maybe you can get a fresh culture of your own starter back again.

Guest's picture
Laura P

(steve sent me. funny thing too; i've been taking pics and getting ready to write my own blog posting about sourdough bread being NOT FINICKY. ;)

I've been doing the King Arthur Flour Whole Wheat Cookbook whole-wheat starter and haven't noticed any rancidity. I will say it seems much more forgiving than what i've heard about white flour starters - you should give it a try! Equal parts flour to water to starter seems to work well; you want to keep it stiffer than a white starter. I also love baking in a lidded dish/dutch oven, slashed and spritzed with water, at closer to 450º for a nice artisan bread.

I want to second the "it doesn't matter" aspect; i started out baking bread thinking every single step was vital and have since learned if I screw something up the bread still tastes fantastic. :)

Philip Brewer's picture

We sometimes feed our starter with whole wheat and haven't had any problems.

Most recently, we fed our starter some whole-grain rye flour.  Bubbles had been making bread that was rather less sour just lately, and I'd read that rye was particularly likely to have a diverse population of wild yeasts and lactobascilli.  So I figured a feeding with rye flour could kick up the sourness of the bread a bit.  We're now eating the first loaf since we did that and I really like the results.

Guest's picture
Guest Julius

Rather than having to make a new starter each time or to use a wet sample kept in the fridge (which can occasionally act "temperamentally"), I have used my own dried sourdough as an ingredient for making each starter as required.
I made this dried sourdough as follows:
From fully risen sourdough I spread a layer of it, about 1/4 inch thick, on a sheet of waxpaper laid on a cookie sheet. When fully dried I peel it off in pieces and grind it into a coarse powder.
Placed in a jar in the fridge it will practically last forever.
A mere 1/4 teaspoon of it mixed with about 1/4 cup of flour and the appropriate amount of water will reliably begin the required starter.

Guest's picture
Guest

Love sour dough bread. So easy and everyone loves it